THERE was the name of a Web site scrawled on cardboard and quickly torn to bits by an anonymous farmer in the Greenmarket at Union Square. Then came the paperwork, legal enough presumably, to protect the source of the illicit substance. Finally, Yaron Milgrom-Elcott received the monthly drop site: an address near Chelsea, open for two hours, show up or lose the white stuff.
Mr. Milgrom-Elcott never missed a drop. Each month, he joined mothers with newborns and Wall Street titans in search of a box of unpasteurized, unhomogenized, raw milk. He is also part of a movement of perhaps hundreds of thousands across the country who will risk illness or even death to drink their milk the way Americans did for centuries: straight from the cow.
Twenty years ago, the Food and Drug Administration banned interstate sales of unpasteurized milk. This spring the agency warned consumers again that they were risking their health drinking raw milk.
Still, individual states determine how raw milk is bought and sold within their borders. While its sale for human consumption is illegal in 15 states, New York is one of 26 where it can be bought with restrictions. The chief one is that raw milk can only be sold on the premises of one of 19 dairy farms approved by the state. Clandestine milk clubs, like the one Mr. Milgrom-Elcott joined, are one way of circumventing the law, and there are others.(...)
“There is always going to be a percentage of raw milk that carries disease-causing bacteria,” said Dr. Barbano, who is a professor of food science at Cornell. “As long as I have pasteurized milk available for me, and I guess more importantly for my daughter, the risk is not worth any benefit anyone has been able to prove.”
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